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the quick brown fox

Come travel with me to...

Rome from xx to xx December 2099

Monday
Oct172011

Le Gramole, Genova

I asked Francesca if she might write something about the beautiful shop, Le Gramole, the shop that she owns with her friend, Norma, in Genova It's a delicious little shop, little in that special way that ancient Italian city does little ... and it is packed full of the most delicious Italian food I've ever seen.  And she did: 

 

If someone asked to Norma and I to describe our shop, I think the first thing we might say is that, “This is not a normal shop”.

We started this adventure in July 2006, opening our shop in Macelli di Soziglia, a little street in the middle of Genova's historical centre.

You should know ...if you really want to be a Genoese, you must call the little streets “caruggi” or, more elegantly, “vicoli”. This is the name for the narrow streets that criss-cross other streets, like a maze, until you become lost in a feeling of traveling back in time via them.

You have to give Genova more than one day because it is not like all the other historical cities, where history is immediately in front of you. Genova is reserved, discreet, it's not showy. It needs to be discovered slowly, You have to wander without worrying about time (better still, leave your watch at home) and walk without looking only in front of you…please turn your face to the sky and discover the magnificent old palaces and their paintings.  The old city really is an outdoor museum.

And it is deep in the heart of this special city that Norma and I have chosen to open our shop.

Why do we say that this is an adventure ? When we started we were leaving our jobs for something unknown.  We knew we wanted to build something that made us happy. And it is this search for happiness, this passion for our products, that we would like to share with all the people who visit our shop.

Each product, be it pasta, olive oil, pesto, cheese, sauces or wine, has been tasted by us. This is the only way we be sure of truly advising you. We travel around Italy searching for the local products that bring excellence to your table. This is our passion !!!!

We have one inflexible rule : Quality Without Chemistry !!  We are proud of the fact that our products never contain preservatives or anything unnatural.

At this point if you may be thinking that I have explained everything however ... not quite.  We don't just want a shop full of the best products, a place where people can find that particular food they are searching for ... we also want to welcome people, to encourage them to stay awhile to discuss recipes, to chat, to network, to meet other like-minded souls.

You see, our dream is that our shop is something more than just a place to buy products, that it is a place where people meet people, then stay awhile.  And it's happening already ... so often, while people are talking, I look at Norma and I say “This is not a normal shop”!!

 

You can find them at: Via dei Macelli di Soziglia al 69 rosso, Genova.

 

 

Sunday
Oct162011

Kay McKenzie Cooke, Poet

*walking through the Octagon
How can one not love
this drizzle?
Burns’ dark glower
as I rush by
under splattered cover.
Ah, there.  See.  That girl
in the fake-fur,
tiger-skin hat
smiling to herself
does too.

Kay McKenzie Cooke.

Kaye is a poet living in Dunedin, New Zealand.  Published and working on new ideas for books, the style of Kay’s poetry delights me as much as her subject matter.  I find ‘home’ when I read her, the time and space I grew up in and still remember.  I asked if I might interview her and here’s how it went.

Kay told me that she has been writing poems since she first learned to write, with her mother encouraging her to submit her work for publishing in the Cousin Betty pages of the local regional newspaper, Invercargill’s Southland Times. 

Like so many of us, she was influenced by English childrens writer, Enid Blyton and perhaps, like Enid, Kay was prolific.  At a very young age she began writing a poem then a short story for the newspaper on alternate weeks.

Back then, her poems rhymed and this, she believes, was a good grounding for the poet and writer she has become, giving her an early sense of rhythm, pace and a feel for the way a line looks and sounds.  She also mentioned the fact that this prolific childhood career gave her a taste for seeing her name print. 

As a teenager, she veered off into very personal and angst-ridden poetry, free of rhyme.  Married and raising a family, Kay was in her early thirties before she really committed to a yearning to extend her poetry and publish work again.  She attended writing courses during those years in an attempt to stretch what she felt was cliche-ridden poetry and create publishable material.

As her early 40s rolled around, Kay finally had ten years of what she felt was real application behind her and she had achieved a distinctive poetic voice of her own.  Her work was being published in literary magazines.

Something I’m always curious to ask a successful poet is ‘how to walk away, deciding that poem is finished?’.  Kay confessed to being a bit of a meddler and that there’s always something to add or take away and so her books are the only places where her poems remain untouched.

Kay explained, when a poem stops talking back to me, thats’s a sign it is complete.

Her poems are the stuff of life, authentic and often verbatim, although she explains,  ... sometimes I change subtle things so that the poem hangs together better – real life is often a clumsy artist.

A recent poem saw two seperate events occur in the same place at different times and she welded those events together to give the poem more strength.  She prefers to avoid slipping into a prosaic rendition of reality and reshapes life with the intention of creating strong poems.  To do this, she remains conscious of the impact each line makes as the poem comes to life.

Influences have varied throughout Kay’s life.  There was the ‘dead poets phase’ when she was a teenager and names like Dylan Thomas, Robert Browning, John Keats and Gerald Manley Hopkins appear on that list.  Later she discovered New Zealand poets Sam Hunt, Alistair Campbell and Ruth Dallas, with the ‘whispered’ inclusion of Rod McKuen during her late teens.

Recent years have been influenced by Seamus Heaney, Judith Wright, Amy Clampitt, Les Murray, Cilla McQueen and Fleur Adcock.

One of those connections that link us without our knowing appeared in the next part of her answer when she wrote of an English lecturer at Otago University called John Dolan ... a favourite lecturer of mine that semester I studied poetry with him as my professor.

She wrote, John very much influenced how I approached writing.  He and his wife Katherine have since become good friends, but I would say that they now encourage and support my writing, rather than influencing it.

Answering my questions, Kay came to the conclusion that she was without influence at this moment in time and wondered whether she needed to discover a new influence or rediscover an old one.

These days she is at her writing best when her mind is being refreshed with new images and sensations ... journeys are a source of inspiration, she explains.  Out and about taking in the landscape, or exploring a different place and all it has to offer.

Family has become another wellspring and she talks of brimming with ideas when she spends time with her own extended family ... It has something to do with discovering my own place in the scheme of things, with rediscovering my background and in the memories that are stirred up by the conversations and reminiscing that goes on.

Kay enjoys writing in cafes, disappearing amongst strangers, overhearing snippets of conversations makes her want to write. She carries a notebook to capture the present moment, sometimes finding poems in those notes at a later date.

I was curious to know how, if at all, blogging had affected her poetry.  I found both Kay and her work via her blog.  She explained how, as a child, one of her other hobbies was writing to penpals around the world.  Blogging is surely the adult equivalent and she finds it encouraging to have a ‘band of friends’ from different countries, supporting and encouraging her work.

Oddly enough, Kay doesn’t look for inspiration on the web, and confesses to preferring to read of a blog friend’s grump about the washing not drying on the line.  I feel more connected to them through their ordinary observations of normal life than any name dropping about who they have rubbed shoulders with in a foreign cafe ...

Kay has had two books of poetry published and is now working on a short story collection, a possible novel and as always, more poetry, with a third collection in mind.  She has been tempted to include photograhy with the writing but the idea is still new.  She also intends to continue writing a personal journal.

In ‘real life’, Kay is a fulltime early childhood teacher who has spent the last year working with infants and toddlers.  Babies are wondrous beings and I love the ones I look after but I am coming home too tired to think, let alone put words down on paper.  Something has to be done about that, as I can feel the writer within shrivelling.

As with every interview, I ask about travel, the places best-loved and preferred modes of travel.  Kay would love to wander again and mentioned her very New Zealand OE (overseas experience) back in the 1970s.  These days she longs to return to the UK and France.  Her favourite places were Scotland and France, although she would love to visit Ireland too.

One of hers sons is living in Japan, raising her granddaughter there with his Japanese wife.  There is a trip planned there in the near future.

And like so many New Zealanders, she is unable to contemplate the thought of group travel, preferring to be an independent traveler, staying in backpacker hostels and using a rail pass or rental car to move around.

If you would like to read more of Kay’s poetry, you can visit her website
and you will find her books for sale on her blog Kay McKenzie Cooke

Sunday
Oct162011

Raf, Traveler

One of the things I first noticed about Raf was the way he selected his next travel destination ... like a wine connoisseur always searching for that special bottle wine to add to his cellar. And over time it became clear that his cellar is well-stocked with memories and beautiful images taken in places as diverse as the Australian desert and the mountains of Bhutan. 

Ever the wanderer, he can often be found exploring the streets of Brussels with his camera;  maybe eating at his favourite Vietnamese restaurant, discussing life with his Moroccan hairdresser, greeting one of his neighbours in Senagalese or learning Swahili from another ... in preparation for a future trip to Tanzania.  When I asked him to define his feelings about nationality and belonging, he talked of feeling at home wherever he is.  He’s Belgian if cyclist Tom Boonen is winning, he feels a little Flemish if a shopkeeper in Brussels insists on speaking French but after living in Sydney, Australia for a few months he knows that he would be just as comfortable spending the rest of his life in that land downunder.

He is modest about the languages he speaks, despite it being a relatively impressive list that includes fluency in Dutch, French and English, with less fluency in German.  A few sentences in Italian, Spanish, Thai, Japanese and Chinese, and then there’s the Swahili and probably so many others he failed to mention because he ‘only has a few words in them’.

He’s relaxed about learning the language of whatever country he’s visiting.  Laughing, he said ...  I went to Thailand and I couldn’t speak any Thai ... maybe 5 sentences.  I’m not afraid that people won’t understand me and that I won’t understand them ... sign language is universal.

His apartment is centrally-located, an idea dreamt up by the city of Brussels while it was trying to create both ethnic and socio-economic mixes in the inner city.

He explained that the buildings were constructed so that each 6 to 8 apartments shared a common corridor and stairwell which means that you meet your neighbours regularly, creating and maintaining a kind of social control.

Knowing one or two words is enough to start a conversation.  It’s just a matter of being open to people.
The nationalities of his neighbours are almost as diverse as his travels - there are the 2 Belgian families and the East African family, the German journalist and the Moroccan family with 2 kids.  There is the Senegalese guy, the North African couple and a Congolese man with a mixed family.

Raf: I dont feel the need to stay with what I know.
He talked of meeting people he had studied with back in Antwerp and their surprise on learning that he has moved so far from home, living and working less than an hour away in Brussels.  He explained their surprise, saying that Belgians often stay close to the church towers in the place they were born.  He talked of the risk that they run, of not developing an open view of the world, also noting that they often prefer traveling to the big overseas resorts that cater to their desire for Belgian food and conversation.

I like to travel on my own because I realise that waiting 45 minutes until the light is right for
‘that’ photograph is annoying for most people.  However Rebecca, very good friend of mine in Australia, likes to drive and loves to read but never has time so she drives me everywhere I want to go and sits near the car reading while I’m away taking photographs.  It works very well but mostly I travel on my own.

He explains that chance probably played the biggest role in getting him out in the world.  He was 23 when he chaperoned his sister and her friend through France, a trip that didn’t really wake the traveler in him but a year later a South African friend moving to Australia invited him over.

It was that trip across the world on a cheap Air Italia flight that introduced his senses to a world of differences as he passed through Rome, Bombay, Singapore and Melbourne on his way to Sydney.  Landing in Bombay, feeling the heat, seeing things previously unknown to him slowly but surely gave him the desire to want to travel and see more.

Since then Raf has returned to Australia nine times, visited South Africa twice – 6 months before and then 6 months after the landslide election for Nelson Mandela.  He has traveled in Senegal three times,  to Morocco, China, Thailand, India, Bhutan, Patagonia, Argentina, Chile, as well as wandering all over Europe.

I asked Raf how comfortable he was with trying to reconcile his working life in insurance, with his traveling life which seems more directed towards the unusual and slightly extraordinary.  But he believes that the work and the travel are simply aspects of himself.  There’s no huge splitting of self.
Sometimes I wish I could win the lottery, I’d travel, take photographs and nothing else but generally I’m very happy in my travels and with my job.

These days traveling is mostly about landscape photography and a desire to relax ... I don’t think of anything else, all the worries stay behind here and I just enjoy myself.

Sunday
Oct162011

ViaVia Joker Reiscafe, Antwerpen

 A few months ago, I sat at the bar talking with Jeroen, part-owner of ViaVia Joker Reiscafe, brother and business partner of Marise.  Together they own and operate Antwerp’s ViaVia Joker Reiscafe.

As he told me the story of becoming a cafe owner, it occured to me that perhaps ViaVia has a life of it own and seeks out like-minded souls.  It began as a kind of joke, he was a student and was asked by the owners to cover for his wandering sister while she was in India.  The two managers obviously saw the potential and began showing him how to run the business. Eventually convinced, he quit his studies to run the business with his sister, not returning to study until 2007.  Marise is an artist but she also put her painting aside to develop the cafe, only recently returning to her art.

They have been running the cafe for more than two years now and I was curious to know if customers had noticed changes since they had taken over.  A fairly modest guy, Jeroen said that customers have mentioned that there’s a younger fresher atmosphere, perhaps noting the efforts made ... flowers on the table, the drinks menu and freshly painted tables.  They also work behind the counter more often than the previous owners and they have a vibrant staff.

He told me that things had been going well before they took over so there was no need to change much.  These days most people are satisfied, with the biggest change being that the client base has perhaps become younger. 

As with so many of the cafes I’m drawn to round the world, ViaVia Joker Reiscafe is more than a simple cafe.  There’s free wifi - it was one of the first cafes to provide free wifi here in the city, a small library at the back and then there are the people who meet there for Spanish classes and music sessions.  ViaVia hosts an annual party in Hendrik Conscienceplein and of course, the cafe also attracts their neighbours, people who come in the evenings to talk and catch up with friends.

The excellent music was something I had noticed on my very first visit and he explained that both they and their staff bring in the music they have on their iPods.  He laughs, admitting that they do have good taste but he believes it is related to the people who work there .... good music is important to all of them.

As an expat/immigrant/wanderer, this cafe was a place I loved from that first visit but the whole saga of the interview began long before this one with Jeroen.  His third partner in the business went traveling just after I asked if I might interview him ...  his sister was in India and then Jeroen was in Mexico. 

Christoph has since left the business to go travelling however Jeroen is very clear that he doesn’t see himself as a traveller, despite being party to creating this beautiful space that makes this wanderer so very comfortable.

He explained. I like to have nice holidays.  We were in Mexico two weeks and when I’m travelling I always meet a lot of other travellers but I dont see myself in the same category.  I don’t like the travelling scene even though I’ve done most of Europe and Mexico.  We stay on the normal hostel trail in Europe.  In Mexico and the US we moved around using the buses, stayed in the hostels and again, on the beaten track. 

Before traveling, I had this feeling that I had to go see something … that I was losing time.  I went to Mexico and understood that I had had holidays that were just as beautiful within a 1000kms of Antwerp.  Of course Mexico was beautiful but it’s just that I don’t have to go everywhere.

The ViaVia Joker Reiscafe has surely become one of my favourite cafes.  You can find them across the road from the Tram 11 stop on Wolstraat.  If walking, they can be found at Wolstraat 43, 2000 Antwerpen. They have a presence on Facebook and signing up will ensure that you are sent news of the many activities they organise throughout the year.

Enjoy.

Reiscafe translates directly as travel cafe ..

Sunday
Oct162011

Michael Schiller, Poet 

I began noticing Michael Schiller’s poetry some time ago, following his blog - The Forward Earth, I would wait for his next poem, often-times delighting in the photography too.

Eventually there was a book - Something in Another City and I realised it was time for me to ask Michael if we might not ‘chat’ a little, via the internet.  He kindly agreed and here is our conversation ... 

Since when have you been writing your poetry and how much of a role does your photography play in the creative process?

I started writing things down and calling them poems early in 2006. I had joined the navy at a late age and was experiencing a lot of feelings and exploring new philosophical considerations that I wasn’t sharing with anyone. The first time something came to me that I felt inclined to write down, it was entirely formless and without prescience. It happened again and kept happening long enough that, gratefully, writing became something I did. It soon became a way of making something more of my philosophical, and literal, wanderings and observations, than just unacknowledged landmarks in my periphery. I use photography in a similar way. It helps me latch onto scenes and conditions that offer more than I might observe in the moment. A few of my poems have been inspired by perusals of my photo albums.

And looking back, do you see an evolution in your style?

I can say I have something of a style now, which wasn’t so in the beginning. Occasionally, I’ll do something a little experimental, meaning against my norm, but my preference is to write with a rhythm, but without a preset construct; without stanzas or word counts, and only when I have something to say.

How do you let go of your poems, decide that they’re done and press publish?

I find it very easy to publish them, because I’m eager to have that final awareness of having created something. Of course, it very often turns out to be less final than I assume. Fortunately, I always have the option of further editing, and it’s not as if readers are thronging at my storefront. On occasion, I’ve been known to permanently un-publish something I had posted for the satisfaction of creation. I am able to recognize and admit when I need to shelve the materials and hope to find a better arrangement for some of them in the future. The ones that failed to take a polish didn’t make it to the book.

Are you influenced by anyone ... be they poet or writer or someone else?

Like most amateur poets, I have a Kerouac fixation. I love his work, and though I don’t try to imitate it, it helps me to trust my ability to be spontaneous, and remember that I write better when I don’t get caught up in choosing pretty words. Sometimes when I don’t have the words, I clear my head and wait for them to come. They always do; and yet I continually forget that.

When are you at your writing best ... in sadness, in exhilaration, or with a muse present or imagined to be present?

I think sadness and melancholy inspire more of my work than any other emotional state. But some of my favorites, like World Music, come from a feeling that is closer to joy, but carries the weight of profound sadness. It’s hard to quantify. It’s like the metaphysical home and fountainhead of poetry. I only experience that in special moments when observation and introspection join hands.

The names Square Traveler and then Forward Earth – where did they come from? And how did you come up with the title for your book?

I always longed to travel and always liked the idea of taking on The Traveler as my moniker. But I didn’t touch it until I had actually been somewhere, which didn’t happen until I was in the navy. Then I felt it could be justified, but I wasn’t satisfied that it was distinctive enough. It needed a modifier to be original. I heard that a popular singer-songwriter referred to himself as a square, and without knowing for sure what he meant by it, I thought of what it could mean for me. It’s very similar to the original slang sense of the word, the meaning of which suits me. It suits me just fine. I’ve never considered myself to be just like everyone else, or objected to having my differences observed. I’m not a fan of everything I’m supposed to be. I don’t hear the pop of the culture. The sign of the times wasn’t posted for me. I am a square and I prefer to be.

The Forward Earth was originally used in a poem that was dedicated to Jack Kerouac. My favorite prose piece of his is ‘October in the Railroad Earth’. When I decided to dedicate something to him, I asked myself what could be my own version of that. I was in a naval command that is based in a foreign country, Japan, and that is referred to as being permanently forward deployed.

‘Something in Another City’ is a phrase that came into my head one day when my ship was pulling into Hong Kong. I don’t remember precisely what I was thinking about, but there was something I hoped to find there, and I was thinking that if I wasn’t successful, maybe I could find something in another city. That phrase struck me as independently poetic, with any number of potential meanings and implications. It stayed in my head until I had to do something with it.

You blogged for a time and that’s how I found you – why did you start? How much inspiration and encouragement did you get from the blog world and now in Facebook, is it similar?

I had a blog for a year or so and wasn’t using it, because there was no news in my daily life. When free-style poems had been plopping from my brain for a week or so and numbered in the teens, I decided to post them along with some black and white photos. In a fairly short time, a couple of people discovered the blog and left me some flattering comments. That fueled my desire to write and to share my work. I found a forum for that purpose, which brought me more of those treasured compliments and kept me creating and growing. Facebook is different. On my blog, I indulge an inclination to present myself as stoic and mysterious. On Facebook I allow myself to joke and to share things that amuse and otherwise entertain me. It’s my online venue for fun and casual interaction, not artistry.

Favourite authors is always a question, who are yours? I’m also curious to know what style of writing you most prefer reading.

I’ve already mentioned Kerouac. Ernest Hemingway, William Faulkner, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Mark Twain and Toni Morrison are probably the top authors whose work left me wanting more. Beautiful prose is one thing, but I’m a big fan of imperfection: the spontaneous and largely unedited mad rants of Kerouac; the flawed grammar and unschooled language of the characters of Twain and Faulkner; the crude everyman quality of Bukowski. I also love the existential meanderings of authors like Camus and Sartre. I’m still discovering all the greats.

Do you have any inspirational figures in your life?

My best friend, Sarah, believes in me unwaveringly and without reserve. She inspires me to create and try new things when I’d just as soon not bother. She’s also very intelligent and talented in her own right.

What do you do in that other life where you make money and live or is that too nosey?

I earn my living as an office worker in an unglamorous field. Half of my reason for joining the navy was the opportunity to finally get a formal education. That’s a thing unheard of in my family, so there was never an expectation of it, or any preparation for it. But I love to learn and want more out of life than I can obtain under the current circumstances. I’ve made some progress toward my Humanities degree. As for my social life, it’s nonexistent. I have issues with social anxiety, and I take no interest in the the things most people do, like clubs and the bar scene, and never seem to come across people here share my interests. I’m a tourist in everyday life.

And traveling, you have traveled far and wide. Where has been your favourite place so far?

My favorite place so far was Sydney, Australia. It’s a gorgeous city, much like an ideal version of an American city. Every time I turned a corner there, I saw something beautiful, in the architecture or scenery, that made me wish I could live there.

Which place you would like most to visit or return to?

Japan was home to me for three years, and I miss the country and its wonderful people every day. I always dreamed of traveling Europe and have spent almost no time there, so I continue to dream of it. I’m most drawn to Italy, but there’s no place on the continent I wouldn’t be thrilled to be.

Preferred mode of travel, as in are you a backpacker, a hotel or resort, outdoorsy and country or city, beaches or rivers ...?

I’m not bold enough to backpack. I’m drawn to major cities and prefer to stay in a hotel, though it doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Of course, I also love the countryside and I’m absolutely in love with the sea. I would love an opportunity to travel the oceans as a civilian.

World-weary

I’ve scuffed my boot soles
On the streets and boardwalks
Of the largest cities in the world,
Been foreign and peculiar
In a range of abstractions,
Spreading my gibberish
Across borders and oceans,
Up and down skyscrapers,
To monuments ancient and new,
Echoing through valleys
And across red rooftops,
To ripple in silver pools
And undulate in obscurity.
And now I’m ready
To fall asleep to the music
Of crickets resonating
Under floorboards;
To yawn and wipe the dew
From porch rails for a place
To sit with my coffee
And the fauna waking
With elemental ambitions;
To walk in a town so small
That everyone will wonder
Who the hell I am.

 
- Michael Schiller