'They Might Save My Life' ...

The nest of fish was crisp under a coarse snow of salt and smelled so simple and good I thought they might save my life.  Just a little.  Just for that moment.

Extract, 'The Paris Wife', by Paula McLain.

Dear Ren,

I have been writing to you for weeks, then discarding all efforts as unworthy ... unable to finish them.  I even bought a notebook for the thoughts I had while moving from task to task but I change bags, depending on my destination.  The notebook ended up living on my desk, always out of reach whenever I needed it.

Nothing has worked, complicated by my ideal  ... which is to wait for that golden moment, when I'm in the flow - writing straight from the heart.  But those moments are so rare these days, they need time.  There has been no time, no space, for that state of mind.

But here I am today, at one of my 'haunts' .... I have favourite places, scattered all over this ancient Italian city.  For hot chocolate, for espresso, for crema brioche.  For ravioli, for pizza, and for my new love, calzone.  For music, for wine, for aperitivo.

I spend sparingly.  Aperitivo must count as a dinner and of good quality.  The hot chocolate must be in a space that allows the creation of, at least, one good lesson plan.  The ravioli must satisfy at every level.  The calzone ... there are just no words.  I'm still completely in love with that cheese, ham, mushroom and tomato creation.  I leave so full and so comforted.  I will enjoy that for now.  It won't last forever.  

Today I opted to go wandering without my laptop because I had to replenish my coffee supply, which means walking a distance, and my laptop is heavy.  It was raining.  I bailed and left it at home.  However I didn't pack a pen, nor 'your' notebook.  

And it has to be noted that asking for a 'pen' with my New Zealand English, takes quite some courage in countries not my own.  They tell me that my pen still sounds like 'pin', and so I have learned to distract them from the vowel sound by pretending to write ... at the same time.  

I see their bewilderment as they listen, then comprehension dawn as they see my hand move, as if writing.  

I survive.  I'm working on moving my vowels back into general European usage but it's a big job.  Actually, in a side note, I begin studying Italian on Monday.  2 hours per week.  Let's see if Massimo can work magic.  Paula and I will study together.

Meanwhile I'm recovering from my first 2017 cold.  It hit mid-week.  It hit everyone I was out with the previous Friday.  I was one of the last to go down with it.  I'm going to view this as my immune system putting up a brave fight however, I did have anemia again and so, I may be a little run-down.  

Self-care is the hardest lesson for me to learn, it seems.

My future, as ever, remains unknown to me but maybe that is the stuff of real life. I am unable to protect myself with a routine, a career, a place I belong ... or any kind of known future, actually.  It's all still an adventure. 

On the bright side, I am surrounded by really good people, and simply adore my current landlords.  I am so glad I came to this city I love so well..  And I am living in an ancient palazzo on the most beautiful street here in Genova. I feel quite blessed as I run down the marble staircase each morning.  I have a room, a kitchenette and a bathroom - did I tell you already? 

My social life is picking up again.  Last Friday I was invited out to a small bar on the edge of the city.  Canadian friend, Leah, and UK friend, Bianca, came with me, to hear Marcello play.  All I knew was Marcello's music was good ... I could promise those trusting friends of mine nothing else.

We had the most superb evening at Ostaia Da U Neo!!  There was live music, a band but a band without boundaries.  It seemed like everyone there at the bar was either a talented musician or singer ... or both.  Even the bar owner.  It was a massive jam session, we were there at the front table ...  it finished late.  I floated home, quite happy for all kinds of reasons, and the red wine had been delicious too.

Marcello Scotto playing at Ostaia Da U Neo, Genova

Marcello Scotto playing at Ostaia Da U Neo, Genova

 

Saturday morning finds me sitting here at Mentelocale, in Palazzo Ducale, drinking hot chocolate, sweating a little, writing in the back of the book I bought with me to read.  It's 14 celsius, raining ... kind of balmy.  I hear memories in my head ... Mum and Nana both saying 'it's good for the garden, this weather'. 

So I borrowed a pen from the guy at the bar, to write in the book I had brought here to read, sparked by the quote at the start because yes, sometimes these small and beautiful things, like a nest of fish ... crisp under a coarse snow of salt ... smelling so simple and good ... might save my life.'

It made me want to write to you.  It made me stop the perfectionist, I can be, from tearing this up and never finishing it.   It made me sit down and copy it out to you once I returned to my computer.  I'm stunned that I've made it this far.  There are so many discarded letters to Ren, sitting here on my desktop.

I walk alone a lot here.  I love it.  It's a return to the essential me.  I have no problems with wandering alone ... there's a beautiful freedom in choosing the prettiest way home, stopping for a slice of farinata, then hot chocolate.  You would love it, I'm sure.  Possibly I'm basing that on a photograph I took of you here, looking so lost in the place ... in the moment.

I finally understand that I love being surrounded by so many people without being a part of anyone or anything.  There's a beautiful silence somehow.

  I came home to write to you ... finally

Lots love, Di  

This is one of a series of public letters to Ren – a friend, a writer, a poet, and an extraordinary woman who writes to me via her own blog.

Please click through to her website: Ren Powell: Poetics & The Good Life

A Note & 2 Photographs ...

I feel like I've been running in sand lately ... if I were to measure the level of effort requiredversus the distance achieved.  My cold has gone on and on; a milder cold becoming a second more exhausting cold.  Silvia got me checked by a doctor and my chest is clear however ... rest was required and I was unable to rest.

I've reached Saturday and I'm shattered but there is much to be done. These last few weeks have been more about putting out fires, as one thing after another came knocking on my door.  I probably just need to sit down and make plans, now that the coughing has finally calmed itself down.  I just need to sit down, actually.

In good news, I've continued to meet good people, and have smaller, but still excellent, adventures.

I'm enjoying teaching English but I miss my photography.  My students are lovely.  They're clever and interesting, and they blow my mind some days.  And my knowledge of Genova has increased hugely, as I've raced all over it lately.  

I am becoming fluent in 'bus', although still far from perfect.  And better at knowing when to include my umbrella because it might rain.  I have all I require for breakfast.  I'm less good at lunch, and dinner but getting there.  

Sitting here, I was awake just after 6am on this rainy Saturday, I'm realising it's been a year of making-do.  Photographs of my London life have been coming up on my 'year ago today' Facebook timeline.

And I can do 'making do' but will confess that I wouldn't mind a week or two in a hammock some place simple where everything works  ...  :-) 

Painting With Light ...

My photography always returns when I have some free time ... or is that, I return to my photography.  

My head needs to be a little clearer than it has been lately.  Last week was particularly chaotic as I pulled off a few minor miracles ...

Today is Sunday, and I slipped out into the morning searching for coffee and ended up with a camera full of photographs.

I found the light exquisite and ended up staying out for hours, wandering in the medieval heart of Genova.

Fascinated ... by this 'gift-wrapped' building

I love to go walking in the city.  Sometimes in the early morning light, sometimes just before nightfall.

I noticed this 'gift-wrapped' dome a few weeks ago and photographed it, enjoying the surprise of it there on the skyline.

Last night though, my eye was caught by the way the setting sun seemed to be lighting it from inside.  It almost appears to be on fire. 

I've been busy, too busy to post it seems.  Paperwork like my codice fiscale and a bank account, had to be organised.  Then my work here, and the horror that has been moving my stuff from the UK.  I learned a lot.  And finding a new place to live.

However it's a blue-sky morning, here in Genoa, today.  I must go out.  There were puddles and reflections last night but it was a wee bit dark when I found them.  And coffee, I am in need of good coffee.

Buongiorno!

Ilaria ... her story.

I recently met, and photographed, a remarkable young woman called Ilaria.  An 18 year old woman who lives with a rare genetic disorder called Friedreich's ataxia ... a disorder that requires more research that is currently happening. Research that requires funding, and so ... there is a Facebook page where you can donate for ongoing research, or sign up to attend fund-raising dinners, here in Genova.

I asked her to write of herself, so we could share her story with you.  She wrote:

Let me introduce myself: my name is Ilaria. I suffer from a rare disease caused by a genetic abnormality which inflicts progressive damage on my nervous system.  This damage will eventually lead to a loss of control of all the muscles in my body.

The abnormal gene was present at my birth however the disease was only diagnosed in August 2014.   Up until that moment, I played many sports, experiencing difficulties and frustration in certain exercises but taking part anyway.

My mood was often affected by those difficulties, and when my disease was finally diagnosed, I decided I did not want to see anyone anymore.

However time passed and I began to understand that, in order to move forward and overcome the difficulties created by Friedreich's Ataxia, I needed to react and fight. 

These days I am happy. I have made a decision to face the future with courage and determination. I have decided that each of us is different and that my genetic disorder is not a defect but a special feature. I need to be simply, and uniquely, myself.

That this disease should not be approached negatively but rather understood, accepted and, if possible, one day, defeated.  

Ilaria.

Mi presento: il mio nome è Ilaria. Sono una ragazza affetta da una malattia rara, causata da un'anomalia genetica che comporta nel tempo un danno progressivo del sistema nervoso e di conseguenza una perdita del controllo su tutti i muscoli del corpo. Il gene anomalo esisteva fin dalla mia nascita ma la malattia fu diagnosticata soltanto nell'agosto 2014. Negli anni precedenti la diagnosi ho praticato numerose attività sportive notando però alcune difficoltà, specialmente svolgendo determinati esercizi. Molto spesso subivo crolli di morale e appena scoperta la malattia decisi di non vedere più nessuno. Successivamente mi resi conto che per andare avanti e superare qualsiasi difficoltà, è necessario reagire e lottare. Adesso sono serena con me stessa e sempre sorridente. Affronto la vita con coraggio e determinazione. Vado avanti con la consapevolezza che ognuno di noi è diverso da tutti gli altri. Nessuno è uguale a nessuno. Il mio non è un difetto ma una particolarità. Non devo adeguarmi a nessuno. Io sono semplicemente ed unicamente io. La malattia non deve essere affrontata negativamente ma anzi, deve essere combattuta, compresa, accettata e se possibile, un giorno, sconfitta.

Ilaria.

Raffaele Kohler ...!!!

Yesterday ... M.U.R.A was happening, here in the centro storico, in Genova.

It was fantastic!  I kid you not.  They promised 2 days, 16 hours, 30 locations and 40 events.  

I don't know if they kept their promises but I can only presume they did because ... the quality of the artists performing was so high that there was no way to see and hear everyone.  I wanted to linger and listen everywhere I went.

I heard Raffaele Kohler, play trumpet at a concert a few years ago, here in Genova.  I never forgot being completely stunned by his performance then and had looked for his CD.  I didn't find one.  I have one this time.  Grazie mille.

And the delicious thing is that he's not just musician but he's an entertainer too.  He's hilarious, if the audience response to his stories was anything to go by.  Then there were scenes like the one above ...

It felt like he gave us his all during the two hours of free concert out in Piazza Lavagna...

But wait, he was part of a trio and honestly, the other two were truly superb musicians too ... it's only that I wanted, so much, to hear him perform again that I am so focused on the delight I felt in catching his performance.

Ottavo Richter gifted us two hours of beautiful music, laughter and joy really.  

Grazie mille to M.U.R.A for organising this beautiful 16 hours, and for finding so many talented artists.  It was a magical night, one where I wandered alone until midnight.  

And, finally, I got to hear  Raffaele Kohler play again.