This is one of my favorite caruggi (or alleyways) here in Genova.
It's impossible to judge this ancient city by any normal standards. I'll write of what and who I find there in the days ahead and you will see why I love this ancient city so well.

This is one of my favorite caruggi (or alleyways) here in Genova.
It's impossible to judge this ancient city by any normal standards. I'll write of what and who I find there in the days ahead and you will see why I love this ancient city so well.

Really, it was just meant to be a very short walk through the city, with a stop for coffee at my favourite cafe, Caffè degli specchi - on Salita Pollaivoli 43/R, then back to work on the book ...
That was THE PLAN.
3 hours later, and I returned home, having met the most interesting Genovese along the way. I'll write more on them in other posts but it was delightful.
I talked with the man who imports beautiful furniture from India, goods that have been made ethically, both in terms of labour and wood, and sells them here at his shop - Safarà. You can visit his website here.
I chatted with a designer creating the most exquisite clothes.
I bought my pesto and gnocchi from the women who make the best in the world ... or so says I, this ignorant straniero.
Then down to Bio Soziglia, in Macelli di Sozigli,a for a bio lettuce and 2 tomatoes ... I also popped in at Le Gramole Olioteca while I was down there and bought the most exquisite mozzarella. I asked for instruction on how to look after it, mostly because I felt slightly intimidated by the quality of it ... Francesca was kind and explained. And I was right ask, I didn't know that the cheese can taste better if served at room temperature, nor how long I could keep it for after opening it.
And on back up the hill, for my focaccia from the forno on via Ravecca. The focaccia is good enough to walk a distance for.
A ciao to Lorenzo at cibi e libri and home ... to eat some of the food I had hunted-gathered.
A good day, and now ... the book.
Everytime I passed the fountain, in Piazza de Ferrrari, today ... it looked stunning.
Like this ...


On Saturday, I hopped on a train, heading for parts unknown to me ...
Stefano picked me up at Novi and then I arrived, on a small patch of paradise, in the Italian countryside. Before any of my more cynical friends roll their eyes over my casual use of the word 'paradise', I will explain.
In New Zealand, I was a creature who loved nature. I didn't need wilderness, I just enjoyed the sky doing its thing, seeing healthy plants, walking my dogs in school fields, along beaches or river edges. It was a recipe for dreaming.
And I have always loved the scent the nature, especially in Spring, when plants seem to celebrate their winter survival and fill the air with stunning scents.
In Piedmont, Italy, the air, without exaggeration, seemed to be constantly scented by some delicate flower. Acacia I suspect but I don't know enough about the beautiful plant, I photographed, to be sure. Does anyone know what the flowering 'tree' at the end of this post is? Or what the gentle, jasmine-like scent might have been?
Update: Stefano let me know the name ... it is Robinia pseudoacacia or False Acacia.
I rested, in a way that I haven't rested in a long time. I watched the clouds put on a small show and I photographed so many of the plants as I wandered the grounds.
But that aside, I met excellent people. On Saturday evening, friends of Stefano and Miriam gathered and the Genovese humour made me laugh. It's a wicked humour but gently wicked. And I tried a range of Genovese foods, out there in the Piedmont countryside ... Cima stood out as a new favourite. I'll write of it another day but Miriam's mother made it and it was delicious.
And wine ... the wine I tasted, it came from the area and was unlike any I had tasted before but in a good way.
Yes, let me say quietly ... I had a most marvellous time. Grazie mille, Stefano and Miriam.

Life goes on, here in Genova. It's 20 celsius, as I write this, and I can hear the beautiful hum that this city makes, as people end their day of working and meet for aperitivo.
I've been working at the kitchen table that looks out over the street here, window open ... washing drying in the beautiful weather. I can hear the Swallows playing their kamikaze-like games out in the skies. They squeal as they chase each other up and down streets.
I found a wonderful art gallery today. We couldn't talk because we lacked language but I loved the work I saw there. It's not the photograph, which is beautiful anyway, but what the artist does with the photograph afterwards.
The lion you see on the home page inspired me to visit with the lions of San Lorenzo as I passed by them today but I just discovered my TIM connection is too slow here, in Genova ... I can't load my image. Perhaps I'll stop by at the internet cafe tomorrow anyway ... ciao from Genova.